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The Amalfi Coast (Costiera Amalfitana) is a roughly 50-km stretch of coastline in Italy’s southern Campania region, listed as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site. Precipitous cliffs, vibrantly coloured houses, the scent of lemon blossom, and the vivid blue Mediterranean — this is the filming location of The Talented Mr. Ripley and The Beautiful Life, and one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the Mediterranean.
SS163 Cliff Road: One of the World’s Most Beautiful Drives
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The centrepiece of an Amalfi Coast self-drive is the SS163, a narrow cliff road carved along the rock face. It has countless hairpin bends and tunnels; the speed limit is generally 30–40 km/h throughout — not to slow you down but to make sure you take in the scenery.
Self-drive route (starting from Naples or Sorrento): Naples → Sorrento → Positano → Amalfi → Ravello → Salerno
What to know:
- The drive is about 2–3 hours non-stop, but a full day is strongly recommended
- Some sections are single-lane; passing oncoming traffic requires patience and skill
- Vehicles over 4 metres are prohibited on certain sections
- Saturday and Sunday are extremely congested — travel on weekdays or set off before 7 a.m.
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Positano: The Most Photogenic Town
Positano is the most colourful town on the Amalfi Coast — houses stacked in layers from the waterfront up the hillside, alternating pink, orange, yellow, and white, like a three-dimensional oil painting.
Must-sees:
- Piazza dei Mulini: The heart of the town, with lemon trees and souvenir shops
- Santa Maria Assunta: Features Byzantine-style frescoes and a colourful majolica dome
- Fornillo Beach: Positano’s main beach, fewer crowds than the principal beach; about 15 minutes’ walk from the town centre
Parking: Positano parking is extremely expensive — roughly €2–3/hour — and spaces are very scarce. Park at an out-of-town car park and take the bus in.
Amalfi Town: The Name Behind the Coastline
Amalfi itself is an ancient city that was once the capital of a Maritime Republic (alongside Venice, Genoa, and Pisa). The town has a 12th-century cathedral — the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea — with a striking Arab-Norman exterior.
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Ravello: The Full-Panorama Cliff Town
Ravello is the highest town on the Amalfi Coast (about 350 metres), famous for its clifftop gardens and classical music festival. The views from here over the entire coastline are the most sweeping you’ll find anywhere.
Must-see sights:
- Villa Rufolo: Clifftop garden overlooking the sea; the venue for the annual Ravello Festival
- Villa Cimbrone: At the far end lies the “Terrace of Infinity” — a pilgrimage spot for couples
Capri: Out to Sea from Amalfi
From Amalfi town or Positano it’s about 50 minutes by ferry to Capri. The island was the holiday retreat of Roman emperors Augustus and Tiberius and is now a playground for Europe’s wealthy elite.
Must-do:
- Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra): Sunlight penetrates an underwater cave, filling it with a dreamlike blue glow; you enter in a small rowing boat
- Gardens of Augustus: The best vantage point over the Faraglioni sea stacks
- Capri Town: Boutiques, cafés, and art galleries
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Lemon Groves: The Amalfi Speciality
The Amalfi Coast’s lemons are world-famous — large, thick-skinned, intensely fragrant. The local Limoncello is made by infusing lemon peel in strong alcohol; served ice-cold, it’s refreshingly tart and sweet.
Must-try:
- Lemon granita: Order a cup from a beachside kiosk in Amalfi or Positano
- Delizia al Limone (lemon cake): A local speciality cake
- Lemon granita: A semi-frozen slush, cooling and refreshing
Accommodation Guide
| Type | Hotel | Price/night | Feature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cliff hotel | Le Sirenuse (Positano) | €500–1,200 | Ultra-luxury; celebrity favourite |
| Boutique hotel | Hotel Villa Franca (Positano) | €300–600 | Sea views; design-led |
| Agriturismo | Near Ravello | €150–300 | Lemon groves; peaceful |
| Economy guesthouse | In Amalfi town | €80–180 | Good location; intimate |
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Practical Information
- Visa: Schengen visa required
- Best time: May–June and September–October (fewer crowds, lower prices, sunny); July–August peak season is very crowded
- Parking: Public transport or ferry strongly recommended; driving into the towns is extremely difficult
- Dress code: Shoulders must be covered and hats removed in churches; bring a light jacket (significant temperature difference between morning and evening)
- Currency: Euro
- Time zone: 6–7 hours behind China
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