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Lisbon Tram 28: A City Card in Motion
In Lisbon, no travel experience is more quintessential than Tram 28 (Eléctrico 28). This yellow heritage tram, running for over a century, weaves through steep cobblestone streets from the Baixa commercial district, climbing up through the labyrinthine lanes of the Alfama old town, eventually terminating at Largo do Rato.
As the tram passes through narrow streets, its sides nearly graze the walls on both sides — the sensation is genuinely thrilling. Through the windows you see azulejo-tiled old buildings, balconies strung with laundry, and the walls of São Jorge Castle suddenly appearing overhead — the exact image from every Lisbon postcard.
Tram 28 Complete Guide
Route Details
Route: Martim Moniz → Alfama → Baixa → Chiado → Estrela → Campo de Ourique
Operating hours: Approximately 5:40–23:50 (8–15 minute intervals)
Fare: Single journey approximately €3.50; Viva Viagem card (€6.40) offers 10 rides valid on all metro, trams, and buses
Full journey time: Approximately 45–60 minutes non-stop; a proper hop-on hop-off exploration takes 3–4 hours
Best Riding Strategies
Strategy 1: Early Morning Light Chase (Recommended) Board at the Martim Moniz terminal before 8am — claim a rear window seat. Riding counter-clockwise, you occupy the best shooting angle on the uphill sections. The early morning tram is nearly empty; plenty of room to photograph at leisure.
Strategy 2: Sunset Loop Board in Baixa, ride all the way to Largo do Rato, walk to São Jorge Castle, and ride the return journey at sunset. The light is at its most golden, and Alfama’s stone streets take on a warm amber glow.
Strategy 3: Hop-On Hop-Off Deep Dive Purchase the €6.40 10-ride card and freely board and alight at any stop along the entire line. These stops are particularly worth lingering at:
Highlights by Stop
| Stop | Highlight | Suggested Time |
|---|---|---|
| Martim Moniz | Alfama entrance | 30 mins |
| Sé Cathedral | Lisbon’s oldest cathedral | 20 mins |
| Miradouro da Graça | Best city viewpoint | 45 mins |
| Chiado | Century-old bookshop; recommended cafés | 1 hour |
| Estrela | White-domed basilica | 30 mins |
| Campo de Ourique | Local residential neighbourhood; relaxed pace | 1 hour |
Alfama Old Town: Treasure in the Labyrinth
Alfama is the name of Lisbon’s oldest district — older than the Great Earthquake of 1755. In this maze of cobblestone lanes, fado drifts from tavern doors, flamenco dancers perform in the streets, and craftspeople weave straw hats in the squares.
São Jorge Castle (Castelo de São Jorge) The high point of Alfama — Romans and Moors both fortified this hill. What remains today is mostly the 12th-century reconstruction after Portuguese King Afonso Henriques retook Lisbon. The castle overlooks the entire city; on a clear day you can see the April 25th Bridge. Entry approximately €10; visit in the afternoon to avoid the worst of the midday heat and thinner crowds.
Baixa Commercial District: Elegant Rebirth After the Earthquake
The 1755 earthquake levelled nearly all of Lisbon. Baixa was rebuilt to a grid plan after the disaster and is now the city’s commercial and tourism centre: broad plazas, ornate wrought-iron balconies, and elaborate azulejo panels everywhere.
Commerce Square (Praça do Comércio): The grand riverside plaza facing the Tagus — Napoleon once marched his troops through here. Strolling along the waterfront here at dusk is a classic Lisbon experience.
For day trips from Lisbon to surrounding towns, book transport through GetTransfer — Sintra day trips or private car to Cabo da Roca are more convenient than train plus bus combinations.
Lisbon Transport Cards Explained
Viva Viagem Card (Essential) A rechargeable card valid on all Lisbon metro, trams (28 and 15), buses, and some ferries. Purchase requires a €0.50 card fee.
Navegante Monthly Pass: If you’re staying more than 3 days and riding public transport more than 3 times per day, the monthly pass (~€40) is significantly cheaper than single tickets.
Single fare: Metro/tram/bus approximately €1.85 (with one transfer valid within 90 minutes).
Recommended Day Route
Classic route:
- Morning: Ride Tram 28 uphill; explore the Alfama old town
- Midday: Find an authentic Baixa restaurant for bacalhau (cod fish)
- Afternoon: Take the metro or funicular to a viewpoint; explore Chiado
- Evening: Stroll the waterfront; take the ferry across to the April 25th Bridge side
Book Sintra tickets in advance through Tiqets to avoid on-site queues — the UNESCO-listed town with Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira is a must-visit, 40 minutes by train.
Food and Restaurant Recommendations
Lisbon prices are among Western Europe’s most accessible:
- Bacalhau (salt cod): Portugal’s national dish; 365 ways to prepare it. The Bacalhau à Brás version (shredded cod + potato + egg) is highly recommended
- Francesinha: A sandwich layered with ham, sausage, steak, and covered in melted cheese and spicy tomato sauce — a meat lover’s dream
- Ginjinha: Cherry liqueur; a Lisbon tradition, traditionally served in a chocolate cup
Best dining areas: Baixa suits tourists; Chiado is more authentic; Alfama has the best atmosphere.
Practical Information
- Language: Portuguese; younger locals generally speak good English
- Tipping: Service charge typically included in restaurant bills; an extra 5–10% is appreciated
- Safety: Lisbon is safe during the day; avoid isolated Alfama back lanes at night; pickpockets operate on Tram 28 — keep valuables secure
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